You'll either need a flashed ECU or an HKS FCD. I don't really see any real danger here tbh.The stock downpipe is good enough for the twins to go bpu, personally I would just 'gut' this cat which will make it into a 2' straight pipe, this limit your turbos from spiking to just over 12psi if you do not have a boost controller.
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Both the Short Ram SRI and Cold-Air Intakes come with a K-Tuned K24 Upper Radiator Hose. This will move the upper hose downward and provide the space needed to install the new intake. K-Tuned has also designed a special battery tray to move the battery down to the frame rail and make even more room. All the necessary hardware and clamps are included. Installing Aftermarket Parts: I want to install some aftermarket performance parts on my car's engine but I'm worried I might have a problem passing the CA smog check. I want to install a turbo unit, air intake unit, and exhaust headers. How can I find out if the upgrade parts I want to use are California smog legal, and won't fail the emissions test? What about OEM parts?
Most shops should be able to do this job in about an hour (be careful as the chemicals inside the cat are toxic!) There are after market downpipes but they simply go from 2' to 3'. If you run just a 3' straight pipe you'll have to throw in a 2' restrictor ring which defeats the whole purpose.If you are worried about aircare, I would think about keeping the stock exhaust, and installing a cut-out on the downpipe. My friend in Alberta picked up 60bhp on the dyno with a flick of a switch - it's the best of both worlds. Can you tell me more about flashing the ECU? I tried to find information but couldn't find much.
If there are ROMS and an easy way to flash the ECU that would be great, or even just chipping the stock ECU.So just upgrading the exhaust will in effect increase the boost slightly because of the extra airflow?Can you give me some more info about 'cut-out' on the downpipe? This sounds interesting, since I'll be doing Aircare next year I don't want any hassle so the cat has to stay for now.Thanks 4doorvip!
Can you tell me more about flashing the ECU? I tried to find information but couldn't find much. If there are ROMS and an easy way to flash the ECU that would be great, or even just chipping the stock ECU.So just upgrading the exhaust will in effect increase the boost slightly because of the extra airflow?Can you give me some more info about 'cut-out' on the downpipe? This sounds interesting, since I'll be doing Aircare next year I don't want any hassle so the cat has to stay for now.Thanks 4doorvip!This is the cutout:Not sure about flashing ecu but people use a SAFC or a geforce. Not sure about on the aristo. Can you tell me more about flashing the ECU? I tried to find information but couldn't find much.
If there are ROMS and an easy way to flash the ECU that would be great, or even just chipping the stock ECU.So just upgrading the exhaust will in effect increase the boost slightly because of the extra airflow?Can you give me some more info about 'cut-out' on the downpipe? This sounds interesting, since I'll be doing Aircare next year I don't want any hassle so the cat has to stay for now.Thanks 4doorvip!You can't really flash the ECU yourself. Blitz, SARD, Mines, and other JPN tuning companys 'chipped' a lot of Aristos back in the day. Nowadays these ecu's tend to sell for $350-650 on the used market place.They often remove fuel cut, increase the rev limiter, remove speed limiter (180km/h limt), and tune air/fuel to accomidate after market exhaust and intake.Without a boost controller, and a 3' exhaust system with gutted downpipe you should be able to hit 12-13psi easily.With an exhaust cut out without a controller you can hit around 16-17psiI would really commend getting a quality boost controller.
It will help protect your turbos from spiking. HKS and Blitz make fine units. You will notice a much smoother transition between #1 and #2 turbo, making the system more effecient. And more importantly. Upped power!Check out Supraforums and search for 'dual intake' or 'twin intake', no dyno graphs have proven the effectiveness of these systems yet but people report more power on the butt dynos. I'm holding off until we have dyno proven power gainsLast edited by 4doorvip; at 11:44 PM. Thanks guys for the info, here's the pic of the cutout copied from ClubAristo:I think I like the idea of the cutout, I still don't understand how it creates more HP but it seems to be pretty common and understand in the 2JZ-GTE world.I like the idea of cutout if it can be wired to have a disable switch to pass aircare or to open up only at higher psi that you wouldn't hit normally during an aircare test.mark88's example is about $349 USD but the question I have is what does it take to install?
It sounds like just before the muffler the piping must be cut and then the cutout gets installed? And then some kits/aftermarket wiring can be used to enable and disable the cutout?4doorvip, do you really think a cutout would add 60BHP to an entirely standard/stock Aristo like mine?
Are there any possible negative side effects?Am I right in thinking the cutout is the most sensible and biggest gain to add HP to 2JZ-GTE without increasing things like boost? I'm guessing 4doorvip's friend must have increased the boost along with the cutout then to get his 60BHP or is this a difference of opinion on how effective the cutout is?I've read that guide on ClubAristo and there's lots of good info there but it's not practical for me to do all of those things, both time and money wise.I'm trying to figure out the practical way to slowly increase power without doing the entire BPU. How about adding a 3' catback exhaust, wouldn't that also have the effect of increasing boost somewhat?What do you experts suggest if you only wanted to buy one or two items to boost the power in your 2JZ-GTE? My best guess is catback exhaust (I don't want to decut for aircare reasons) and maybe add a boost controller?I'm not looking for huge power and I don't know if I'll do any of this stuff soon but I'm planning for the future/trying to learn beforehand.
I have owned many Aristos how much power are you looking to get out of it? First thing is they have smaller turbos, injectors and cams unlike the usdm versions.A cut out will not give you 60BHP. A boost cut defender is about $100 you can go with the HKS or the Trust ones on this both do the same thing.Your best bet is to start out with a Wide band O2 and EBC I usally use the AEM wide bad and AEM tru boost both very good and budget priced next 3inch exhaust and a short ram intake I recomend you make your own using a piece of pipe and a aem dry flow filter. The HKS ones are garbage there fliters restrict flow and do not filter anything so stick to a K and N or AEM cone filter. You can also add a greddy e manage blue or and Apex-i Safc 2 both are very easy to use.
Installing Aftermarket Parts: I want to install some aftermarket performance parts on my car's engine but I'm worried I might have a problem passing the CA smog check. I want to install a turbo unit, air intake unit, and exhaust headers. How can I find out if the upgrade parts I want to use are California smog legal, and won't fail the emissions test? What about OEM parts?What You Must Have: Engine performance upgrade components such as upgrade ECU, turbo units, exhaust headers, intake manifolds, and other emissions related components can pose smog check problems, however if proof is shown that the upgrade units are legal for use in California (they posses an EO number) or they are OEM parts, they will not cause a vehicle to fail the California smog check.EO stands for Executive Order. This is a number given to the emission upgrade component by the California Air Resources Board (CARB). The EO number indicates the performance upgrade part is California emissions legal.Most manufactures of aftermarket performance parts will stamp the EO number on the unit or they will print in the unit's manual or other document which pertains directly to the performance upgrade component being installed or inspected.Most late model upgrade components however will have the EO number stamped on the upgrade parts body.You must present this number to the smog station where your vehicle will be getting a smog check in order to pass the portion of the smog inspection.Which Parts Are Smog Legal?
Aftermarket engine upgrade components sold at local California automotive part stores are CARB approved and posses EO numbers. Buying an upgrade component locally in California is a safe method of performing engine upgrades.Performance upgrade components bought online or out-of-state might require a little bit of leg work to ensure they will not cause a California smog check failure.A non-emission related component does not need an EO number. A typically non-emission related upgrade component is the air filter unit.Air filter units which do not have any sensors on them and allow for the proper connection of all existing air intake hoses and vacuum lines are not considered emission components in most cases.
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